I became a member of the RSPB here in England after my interest in birds was ignited by a marabou stork sighting in KwaZulu Natal, South Africa. I have told the story many times before, so briefly, here is it again. Around twenty-five years ago, my wife Melanie, and I had been to Fort Durnford in the town of Estcourt. Her grandfather Godfrey or he was known in Zulu, Baba Mkhulu, had driven us the short distance and given us a guided tour of the museum located in the fort. As we left the tar road and headed onto the farm’s dirt roads, he became very animated and excited, pointing and muttering through his white moustache. We were puzzled to say the least, even more so when he jumped out of the car without stopping. Engine running, he called to us to come and look. There walking through the grass was a tall, four to five feet in height, rather ugly bird with a big beak. It was a marabou stork, not just any old stork, but the first that Baba Mkhulu had ever seen on the farm. When he finally regained his composure, we headed back to his farmhouse where I was to learn what a great birder, some might say, twitcher, he was. My interest was sparked.
I was reading my latest RSPB magazine and a piece by Simon Barnes, as it always does, struck a chord in me. Simon is a great contributor to the magazine and an author that has inspired me when it comes to all thing’s birds. I have four of his books and refer to myself as per one of his titles: A Bad Bird Watcher (How To Be) He writes in this latest article about being taught and teaching in the field and through his books. Within his latest RSPB contribution, he mentions receiving a note from someone stating, “You changed my life”. He modestly says that it was not him, but birds, that changed the life of the note writer. I did not write that note, but I could be proof that a combination of people and birds can change lives.
Baba Mkhulu during one birding conversation went on to ask me where my best elephant sighting had been. I had to confess to never seeing an elephant, anywhere. He muttered something through his moustache, made a couple of calls and handed me his car keys along with a few birding books. He stressed the importance of taking an interest in birds. He was changing my life. Watching birds will more often than not lead to other sightings. The next day Melanie and I were driving, in his car, to Zululand. We had the most amazing time as not only did I see my first elephant I got to see herds of them. Along with a mass of general game, many species of antelope, there were cats. Lions on the first day and leopard on the last day. But it was whilst sitting in his car under a tree debating what the birds were in it, that Baba Mkhulus advice first came to fruition. Were they eagles or kites went the debate. They were there for a reason, scavenging, as our attention was distracted to the base of the tree where a cheetah appeared, with cubs, feeding on a kill. This was one of two cheetah sighting that we were privileged to over the days we were there. These moments and sightings were life changing.
When I am talking to people, potential clients, about what they want from their South African holiday, the vast majority want a safari. There are of course within KwaZulu Natal, the Drakensberg Mountains, with the highest waterfall in the world and nearly a thousand kilometres of beaches. There are city beaches, like those in Durban, but the majority are dune lined and wild. The province is also full of culture and history, from ancient San rock art to the Zulu people, to the historic figures, Mahatma Ghandi, Winston Churchill and Nelson Mandela. All of the mentioned can be mixed in with a safari. I always ask people, when on their safari, what they would like the chance of seeing. Is there an animal they have dreamt of encountering? Maybe they are returning for a second or third adventure and want the chance of a new sighting, rare wild dogs or maybe the incredibly endangered pangolin? During these chats I more often than not warn people, with a smile, as to the danger of a safari: They can be addictive!
I look back on my early holidays to KwaZulu Natal with my first visit to Weenen Game Reserve, family trips to Ithala Game Reserve and of course the above-mentioned road trip to Zululand where we stayed at Mpila Camp in Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park. There have been many safari ‘firsts’ for me like the elephant, lions and cheetahs. Then over the years, rhinos, hippos’ hyena, bush baby’s, Nile crocodiles, wild dogs and even a pangolin. Not to mention birds, that began with a marabou stork then others like martial eagle, yellow billed kites, ostrich, tufted guinea fowl and hamerkop. I could go on now that I am, in the words of Simon Barnes, a bad bird watcher. But I think that Simon and Baba Mkhulu do change people’s lives or play a part in it at the very least.
It is without doubt that KwaZulu Natal, South Africa and its flora & fauna changed my life, along with some inspired reading. I have not even mentioned seeing breaching humpback whales, sharks and hatchling turtles emerging from their nest. But I need to as the safari does not stop and has few limits. There is always something when it comes to wildlife, to see here. And always think of and remember the birds, look up and there will probably be a swift or a swallow above you. Are you ready to talk to me and take a gamble on having your life changed by booking a safari?
“The only man I envy is the man who has not yet been to Africa- for he has so much to look forward to.” Rich Mullins
