If you have not yet experienced the enormous thrill of being on a South African safari, you have so much to look forward to. If you have, then you may well have sat in a safari vehicle with other guests and your guide has asked you as a group a question; “What would like to see while we are out on our game drive?” As the guide looks at each guest answers come in thick and fast. Cats are always the firm favourite, lions, leopard, cheetah. And of course the biggest often get a mention, elephant and rhino. My answer once was fiery necked night jars. It was met with a smile from the guide and groans from the other guests when they were told it was a bird. Every now and then, sometimes from a well-travelled and experienced Southern African safari guest and sometimes from a smart arse who knows the near impossibility of the answer, aardvark, honey badger and pangolin are requested.
This year 2024, my thirtieth year of visiting KwaZulu Natal, South Africa, had an extraordinary amount of pinch myself moments. These include sitting alone on a self-drive safari with a family of cheetah and getting a sighting of some newly introduced lions while staying at a stunning new lodge. Visiting a rhino orphanage, although emotional, was an amazing experience for many reasons. I often ask myself how me, a boy from the middle of England, has ended up here. And of course, without the dedication, sacrifice, and at times unimaginable work of those involved in conservation at all levels, none of my experiences would have been possible.
After many months of correspondence, I find myself back in Zululand looking for the impossible. The impossible that I did not dream of seeing in my lifetime and had in the time leading up to my visit told myself could not happen. Many times, over the years I had been out in the African bush with high expectations of certain sightings and encounters. Even with great guides and the latest technology sightings are far from guaranteed. As I always say, you need to have lady luck with you.
After a lengthy chat, with Louis my guide, about our location, the project I am visiting, and the species and what to expect on our time out in the bush, we jump into the game viewing vehicle. I take a back seat as into the front goes our telemetry and tracking equipment and onto the front seat jumps Ruby. Ruby is a trained springer spaniel working dog and takes priority when out in the field.
With the aid of technology, LoRa GPS tracking, Louis has an idea of where our target for the day is. With this information he has arranged to meet a local lodge guide in the area to observe and assist in the day’s activities. Now with the aid of telemetry and VHS tracking, Louis works using markers and angles to get within meters of our target, who we know is a female called Pipa. However, we are now in thick bush and earlier in the day lions were sighted in the vicinity. We also have movement a few hundred meters in front of us in the thick bush. After a great deal of thought Louis, with handheld telemetry aerial, Ruby with her adapted lead & collar, and lodge guide head into the bush and we lose sight of them. The movement now increases and is accompanied by glimpses of black fur and distinctive grunts. The reality is we are now confronted with a large herd of buffalo. On his swift return to the vehicle Louis comes up with plan B.
Plan B is another female called Camomile. Again, using pre-collected data and the technology on board the vehicle we head off to a new location. Louis uses his local knowledge, tracking skills and telemetry to pinpoint an area approximately ten meters square in relatively open bush. There are no other signs, sightings or noises of any other wildlife present. It is decided that we all exit the vehicles and head single file behind Ruby into the bush. After ten to fifteen minutes a very excited Ruby comes up trumps. We all move forward and stand perfectly still as Louis rewards Ruby with a treat and points out our target. Being totally honest I cannot see anything other than a couple of thin thornbush trunks and a lot of shin high parched dry grass. Then Louis brushes the grass to one side and assesses Camomile’s position, allowing us all to see something quite remarkable. Camomile is an adult female pangolin. I can now see her tail and lower back covered in scales. Now with a minimal of fuss and in complete silence Louis carries out a health check, looking for ticks and any sign of injury. He then checks her tracking devices and replaces one before weighing her. A very healthy 12kgs.
I am still in shock that here I am looking at the worlds most trafficked animal and critically endangered species. An actual pangolin that was believed to be extinct in Zululand seventy years ago, until reintroduction within the last decade. Once happy, Louis gently places Camomile back onto the ground and she immediately curls up taking a defensive position. We are allowed to take a few photos and we begin to move away. Sensing her moment she uncurls and in a matter of seconds disappears back into the grass.
The fate of Pangolin here in Zululand is in the hands of dedicated conservationists. They do not breed in captivity, so it is vital that this project, and others, are a success. Pangolins are generally rescued from traffickers, so their home is not known. After spending time in the care of a vet for initial rehab they are marked for a soft release when weighing around 6.5kgs. Not all pangolins can adapt to their new locations and habitats. Something as simple as too many ticks can mean that a pangolin will struggle in a new area. That is why they are constantly monitored and regularly checked. They are under constant protection against their main predator who wants them for their scales and meat, humans.
When you are next in Manyoni Private Game Reserve, ask your ranger for the impossible…
For more information on the invaluable conservation work being carried out by the pangolin team & to donate please visit:
https://zululandconservationtrust.org
