Getting off the beaten track is an adventure in itself. But there are not many places that make you feel like you are off well-driven routes and genuinely getting away from it all. Here though at the majestic Makongo Hills Safari Lodge in the Mkuze Valley Wilderness I felt a feeling of solitude within minutes of my arrival. I was not taking one small step for man and leaping for mankind, but I did have an immense feeling of freedom. It was a wow moment. Breathing in the warm Zululand air and taking in the magnificent mountainous scenery that stretched out before me. I stood under a hot, deep blue sky, on lush green grass where warthogs and wildebeest grazed. I gazed slowly from left to right. Grasslands, valleys, rolling hills, thornveld, forest and distant mountains made up the view. Nothing but the very best of Zululand beauty was in front of me.
Heavy rains and local flooding in the weeks leading up to my visit meant getting to the lodge had its challenges. These were overcome easily with the aid of a transfer suggested and provided by the lodge. The roads within the reserve were in remarkably good condition, obviously well maintained, and I was wondering why I needed a transfer for the last leg. On being collected it was the river crossing that would have presented me and my hire care a real challenge. Crossing and driving through the high fast flowing river got the adrenalin flowing and kicked off that feeling of really getting off the beaten track.
After checking in and being shown to my room there was time to take a wander around and explore the lodge and grounds before lunch. I met Casey, the lodge manager outside the main homestead. I commented on the stunning view that lay before us and he gave me some history on the distinctive two mountains that sat directly opposite us. I love to hear a great story being told, especially something historical, and have found over the years Zulu people to be up there with the best of raconteurs. Nearly one hundred and ninety years ago the landscape in front of us was a battlefield. The Battle of Maqongqo, where the lodge takes its name from, was a fiercely fought, violent fight. The Zulu King of the time Dingane was attacked by his brother Mpande at the royal compound. The struggle for power, eventually won by the challenger Mpande, was a bloodbath. Casey, like all great orators, mixed in actions, sounds and the distinctive clicks of the Zulu language, with beaming smiles. Zulu people seem to always smile when telling a story, no matter how gruesome the subject. Over the next couple of days looking at those hills I thought I could hear the screams of battle emitting into the hot Zululand air.
My room, the Ingwe (leopard) rondavel was perfect for my stay, designed and decorated in keeping with its surroundings. There were even great views from the comfort of my crisp, white sheet covered king size bed. The good-sized ensuite bathroom and shower had a real rustic feel, again very much in keeping with the surrounding environment. A short walk passing, impala, nyala, among others, took me to the main homestead, then onto the lapa and pool deck where we ate all meals. By coincidence my stay overlapped with very good friends, Richard & Renae Griffin, who I dined with. Each meal was exquisitely served by smiling, dedicated members of the lodge staff who were accompanied by the chef to introduce us to our feasts. Each meal was an event. Breakfast, on the pool deck started with fresh local fruits, yogurts and cereals, a cooked to order main, with home made breads, muffins, jams & preserves to finish. Lunches included melt in the mouth beef wraps served with chips and salad. I loved the chicken curry, with rice and flat breads, served in the lapa next to an open fire.
Out on the fifteen thousand hectare or thirty-seven-thousand-acre reserve we traversed a wide variety of terrains. These included lands with low and high grass some that had become wetlands after recent high levels of rainfall, thick indigenous bushveld and rocky mountain style passes. We spent many hours passing plains game including huge herds of impala, zebra, wildebeest, kudu and giraffe. And through careful observation and tracking we were rewarded with a cheetah sighting. We followed her from the road as she made her way away from us until she vanished over the horizon. On game dives you need to persevere, have faith in your driver & guide, and be lucky. There were signs everywhere, particularly close to the lodge, of elephants. They had walked on the camp road the night before my arrival and were clearly still in the area. We caught fleeting glimpses of grey skin, heard occasional snapping of trees and the distinctive low frequency rumbles of elephant communication. But that clear sighting evaded us. I am always amazed at how an animal so big can remain so elusive. But there was one last moment of luck. As I departed the lodge my journey was delayed by a big male bull feeding just off the dirt road. Never say never and always keep alert as you never know when in the boundaries of these wild places what you will encounter. The perfect end to a very special stay where I genuinely found myself off the beaten track.
Last week Richard, suddenly and without warning, passed away. We are still trying to take the heartbreaking news in and our thoughts are very much with Renae and the whole family. Richard was kind and generous and his loss will be felt by so many. I am honoured to have known him
