It had been too long since I had spent some time in the battlefield region of KwaZulu Natal. With an idea in my mind, I reached out for assistance from the Battlefields Route tourism authority. Pam McFaden, chairman of the organisation, came back to me and with her help my plan became a reality. Pam put me in touch with John De Silva who agreed to host me and Paul Garner who agreed to guide us. My plan was to travel to a few places where my wife’s great, great grandfather Fred Symons had visited during his time in the Anglo Zulu War and went on to mention in his diary. I felt it very appropriate to be staying at KwaKunje. Translated from Zulu to English it means, it was like this. And when driving into the battlefield’s region the surrounding landscape and scenery could still be described as, it was like this, when Fred made his way there nearly one hundred and fifty years ago.
Kwakunje is ideally located on the edge of the town of Dundee in northwestern KwaZulu Natal. It falls under the jurisdiction of the Umzinyathi District municipality. Umzinyathi in Zulu translates to buffalo due to the town’s proximity to the Buffalo River. It is here on the river where the mission station once stood that is now best known for the battle of Rorke’s Drift and the subsequent film ‘Zulu’. This was to be one of our destinations following Fred’s diary along with the battlefield at iSandlwana, Helpmakaar and the Mangeni Valley.
Kwakunje Village Bed and Breakfast, to give it it’s full name, has been designed and constructed replicating a traditional Zulu homestead. On approach it is a collection of rondavels, round huts, with thatched roofs laid out to house an extended family. The Zulu people would call this, (their home) an uMuzi. The outside of each hut has a very authentic look but inside each one has been converted to suit both local and overseas tourists. Once through the small doorway and onto the polished concrete floor a good size room awaits you. Mine was a twin with ensuite bathroom, clothes rail, fridge, tea & coffee station, complete with wifi.
John, the owner, was very helpful in my planning stages and very flexible. I ask a lot, some would say too many, questions. The stay is on a bed and breakfast basis. But there is the option when it comes to dinner to self-cater or eat in the village’s thatched dining room with meals cooked by the village staff. I did both and on the first night used the village braai, barbecue, to cook taking advantage of the thatch covered outdoor kitchen. Utensils, cutlery, and anything I was short of the staff found for me. The second night I ate a home cooked meal in the dining room, which was perfect, to finish a very busy day. The pork chops were cooked to perfection. I again asked too many questions but maybe there should be a traditional menu available to guests? The breakfasts were a great way to start the day with fresh fruit followed by a cooked option.
The village shares Talana Hill as a backdrop with it’s neighbour Talana Museum. It was here that the first major battle of the Anglo Boer War was fought. It also saw the first casualties of the bloody conflict including Sir William Penn Symons (no relation to Fred) the commanding general of the British force at Talana. The museum, best described as a heritage park, comprises of open-air exhibits and approximately thirty outbuildings. There is huge diversity covered here from coal mining, farming, the lives of ordinary people and of course war, including the Zulu and Boer Wars. It was my second visit, but I spent another whole afternoon here on arrival in Dundee. It is a fascinating place full information and relics and does hold a typed copy of Freds diary.
Basing myself at Kwakunje Village worked out perfectly for exploring. Depending on where you are driving from there are so many options on route for stop off. I came up through the KwaZulu Natal midlands where I could have stopped off at the Nelson Mandela Capture Site Museum, somewhere I have visited twice before. There are also many battlefield and historical sites to visit including Spionkop, Elandlaagte, Blood River, Fugitives Drift and of course my planned sites including Rorke’s Drift and iSandlwana. There will be much more to come from our Fred Symons tour in a new article.
I would encourage all visitors to spend some time in the KwaZulu Natal battlefield region. The province is famous for its ‘B’s’: Beach, Berg, Bush and of course Battlefields. These can all be easily combined in a relatively small area to navigate. Mix in some history and culture with your safari, mountain views and beach time. And my last piece of advice when in the region, and really it is a must: Book a guide and let them bring the area to life for you as they have done me.
