On entering Manyoni Private Game Reserve through the East gate it was all smiles from the lady who greeted me. They accompanied the warm welcome and the directions I was given to my destination. I felt immediately at ease and relaxed as I drove, windows down, along the reserve’s dirt roads. I passed warthogs, zebra and giraffe who all seemed as relaxed as me. I was heading to Zebra Hills Safari Lodge where I had opted to self-cater. A good question would be why I had I opted to self-cater. The answer is simple. Self-catering is rarely offered in private reserves, and I loved the fact that here there was bush luxury with options.
Having parked my car, I took a minute to take in my surroundings. I should say that this was my second visit, but the new and stunning lodge that stood before me and the gardens that lead to the watering hole were unrecognisable. My memories from that first stay mainly consisted of gloomy rooms and hunting trophies mounted on dull pink walls. Now under new ownership this was a complete transformation with zero trace of the old safari lodge. A lightning strike put paid to the original lodge and lead to a complete and modern new build. I cannot imagine what the new owners went through on losing that original lodge. But what I can say that it has lead to a safari phoenix rising from the ashes.
The main lodge is sleek, finished in white, open plan and minimal in design. The interior fittings, decorations and furniture blend in perfectly and create a very homely and modern feel adding to my sense of relaxation. It is somewhere for all ages where children and their grandparents could feel equally at home. Beyond the main lodge a huge deck has been constructed incorporating a swimming pool and all the garden’s original trees. And with-it being Marula season I even found the noise of the Marula fruit falling onto the deck and rolling until they came to stand still strangely comforting. A pathway leads to the boma, where meals can be cooked on the open fire, and beyond that is the waterhole. There was never a moment during my stay where the waterhole was not alive with wildlife.
Next to the main lodge stands the homestead. Another home from home, beautifully furnished, large kitchen with everything you need to self-cater and enjoy an intimate and family stay. It sits at an angle allowing complete privacy with views to the waterhole and bush beyond. My accommodation was Jack’s Lodge. Again, a stunning new, very modern, two bed cottage with a fully fitted kitchen, open plan dining area and two ensuite bedrooms. I had my own outdoor dining area complete with fire pit and a kettle barbecue. On route I had called into the town of Hluhluwe and along with a small supermarket shop I had called into Allens Butchery and treated myself to four mutton chops and a small boerewors sausage. My simple catering looked out of place in such a lavish setting. But I opted to self-cater and had been made aware of the options that included a fully catered and the flexibility of mixing and matching all meals.
Lodge manager Monique had welcomed me and given me a guided tour of the striking property. She then dropped me an unexpected invite which I was not expecting. One of the lodge owners was staying, with some family members and work colleagues. I was invited to join them for dinner, it was a casual affair, so Monique said to let her know before the afternoon game drive.
Our guide on our drives was Arno and with the lodge being busy we were one of three game viewing vehicles out on safari. Like the lodge, the game viewing felt luxurious. We had a very close encounter with a breeding herd of elephants and two big bulls, one with a very impressive set of tusks. We sat near surrounded by the herd as they fed and tore huge limbs from mature trees. Shows of strength came from all parts of the herd other than the very young who stuck very close to their mothers. With the young being there we kept our distance but were close enough to hear the rumbles of communication between the herd members. Elephants ‘talk’ to each other using low frequency rumbles, so called because they resemble a stomach rumbling.
Mannyoni Game Reserve is renowned for its wonderful birdlife. Along with the prolific amounts of swifts, swallows and red billed quelea there were vultures and several species of eagle. These included brown snake, tawny, martial and bateleur eagles. Gazing up into the cloudless sky watching a pair of bateleur eagles Arno shared some birding knowledge. He pointed out the male and female identifying them by the thickness of their white underwing pattern. I also learnt something new from him as the bateleur is also known as the tightrope walker because of its distinctive flight patter that resembles a tightrope walker with outstretched arms.
The luxury of the sightings kept coming. Two majestic, dark-maned male lions slept a few meters from each other. They occasionally lifted their heads, stood, stretched, took a few paces, before taking up their sleeping positions again. One lion’s interest was sparked when a herd of zebra grazed their way towards him. Once spotted the dazzle of zebras let out a loud warning bray and made their way out of hunting range. We were spoilt with cat sightings as we encountered a mother cheetah and her cubs taking shade at the base of a tree under it’s thick lush green canopy. I am always in awe of the skill of guides when they spot what many would consider to be the un-spottable. Maybe it was the spots of the cheetah that caught the eye, or, more likely the swish of a tail.
That evening having accepted my invite I joined owner Noel, his family, colleagues and guests in the main boma for dinner. It was a memorable outdoor dining experience, where I was made to feel more than welcome, relaxed throughout, where members of staff cooked on the substantial fire. I was treated to the full guest experience and there was no shortage of generosity or food. I of course did not attend empty handed. Among the steaks and other meats being cooked on the grids over the fire there sat my mutton chops and boerewors. They were however dwarfed in size by the meat on offer from the lodge kitchen. The luxury theme ran throughout the whole visit.
