Glancing up at the cloudless periwinkle blue sky had a calming effect on me. I leant on the wooden pole fence, forearms on the top bar, left foot on the bottom bar, right foot tapping nervously on the dusty path. It was the most glorious winters day with a bright and warm sun lighting up the foothills and mountain peaks across the valley. It was, I thought probably the most perfect day to be in the uKhahlamba-Drakensberg Mountains.
From the fence, that surrounded the stables, I watched the horses having a late lunch. I was not nervous around the horses I was nervous because I was about to do something I had not done since I was on a school trip over forty years ago. I was about get back in the saddle. Having only been horse riding twice in my life I did not even qualify as a novice. And the phrase back in the saddle was also not appropriate. A large white horse walked past me, and I asked my guide Zekhelle if this was my horse? A huge grin appeared on his face, and he replied, “No, this one likes to run”. Zekhelle then handed me my helmet and fetched my horse and a chair. I took a deep breath as I prepared to mount (As a cowboy fan, a horse that looked to me like the Lone Rangers horse, Silver) and with a helping hand from Zekhelle my right leg made it over the saddle. I was immediately hit with the most crippling cramp at the top of my right leg. Not the best start but Zekhelle, big smile in place, bent my toes back to ease the pain and assured me this was a regular occurrence. After some instructions, guidance and tips we headed out of the stable gate.
My nerves were soon gone and Butch, my horse, was firmly in control. (in another cowboy reference from my love of films being with Butch ‘Cassidy’ made me the Sundance Kid) We followed Zekhelle who set a slow pace, and I followed all his instructions “lean back Mark” he said glancing over his shoulder as we headed down a pathway covered in lose rocks. After twenty minutes I was starting to really enjoy my vantage point and confident enough to be taking in all the breathtaking Drakensberg scenery. What a place to be riding I thought to myself and why had I waited so long to do this. What an incredible start to my stay at the Little Switzerland Resort.
Full of confidence now, and back at the resort, I read through the hiking options and after taking some advice opted to challenge myself to ‘The Cone’ hike. If I am being totally honest this was the shortest hike on offer and that did have a small influence on my decision. However, winter is extremely dry here and other short hikes were to waterfalls, where there was no water. I will also point out that Little Switzerland Resort is 1635 meters above sea level, The Cone is 1715 meters above sea level and my hometown in the middle of England is 90 meters above sea level. It is fair to say that at altitude I get a little breathless. I took my time walking and stopping every few hundred meters to take in the views. The last few meters to the summit and small plateau involved using my hands but I won’t exaggerate and describe it as a climb. The view from the top was yet another ‘wow KZN moment’. Along with not knowing the names of most trees I come across on my travels, and not knowing enough Zulu, I also regret not knowing the peaks of the Drakensberg Mountains. But with an educated guess I am looking across at the Amphitheatre with the Sentinel on its right and Eastern Buttress to the left and further south to Cathedral Peak. I always find myself transfixed by the sheer size, heights, and scale of the uKhahlamba-Drakensberg Mountains. Some people I talk to find it hard believe that there is such a range here in South Africa.
Apart from horse riding, walking, hiking and enjoying the scenery there is plenty more to keep you occupied here at Little Switzerland. There are mountain bikes, go karts, tennis courts, a bowling green, swimming pool and fishing. This is also a perfect place for just taking it easy. Sit on your veranda and breath in the clean mountain air and enjoy the birdlife. And for a real treat book yourself into the wellness spa for some treatment including a variety of massages.
This is an all-year-round resort but once the sun goes down in winter the temperature drops. My large room though with its under-floor heating was constantly warm and what a pleasure to sit bare foot in a comfy chair enjoying the mountain view through the glass doors. My room was well furnished, including the most comfortable king size bed, and good sized en-suit bathroom.
After a couple of beers in the Vultures Retreat Bar I headed to the restaurant. I have to say that the food was excellent. The resort was busy, and I sat and watched what people were eating and I watched them smiling as their empty plates being taken away. I opted for jalapeno & cheese rissoles, beef curry with rice and sambals, which was excellent, followed by the most divine granadilla cheesecake which I did not really need, but I insisted on an extra thin slice. My Drakensberg Breakfast was another freshly cooked, well-presented feast, that came with a view of the mountains. As a tea drinker I like a big cup to get me going in the mornings. A staff member seemed to know this and without asking presented me a cup to suit my needs. Nothing was too much for a great team here throughout my stay.
To the Zulu people it is the ‘Barrier of Spears’ & to the early European settlers it became known as the ‘Dragons Mountains’. Other mountains are available in South Africa, and some are better known. To me it is simply the berg, but when planning a trip The uKhahlamba-Drakensberg should always be on our lists.
